Magic mushrooms made me sick.
It was 1972 and I was sitting on an almost deserted
beach called Kuta watching two sunsets at the one time, thanks to the effect of
the ‘magic mushrooms’ that I had
consumed.
It was a stupid thing to have done, but I was 20
years of age and living in this paradise called Bali.
As many baby boomers who travelled overseas in the
seventies would know, as a traveller in those days, you were very much on your
own and being in Bali was no different. There were no flights between Bali and
Australia, no iPads, no mobile phones and no emails. My parents didn’t even
know where I was.
So not only were my actions stupid but it also made
very ill. But more importantly the experience taught me a highly valuable
lesson: When travelling overseas, and particularly to third world countries you
are very much ‘on your own’, you have to take great care and responsibility for
your own welfare.
Fast forward to 2012/13 and two critical things have
changed:
Firstly over 850,000 Australians visit Bali each
year and access to family back home in the event of something going wrong is
now very quick and easy, leading to a significantly elevated sense of
confidence and security for many people. Secondly, we have seen the emergence
in our culture of what Joe Hockey called ‘Our sense of entitlement’, which
often leads us to believe that we can go
to places like Bali and do whatever we like with no consideration for the local
culture and our own potential vulnerability.
And whilst many Australians visit Bali and its
nearby islands with the intention of having a relaxed and enjoyable holiday,
there is a not insignificant number who go to our island paradise with the
intention of partying as hard as we can and to carry-on in a belligerent and
drunken manner.
Indonesia is still a third world country where
people often live on $2-$5 per day so if foreigners come looking for cheap
booze, wild parties and drugs, it will be accommodated very quickly. And so it
is with places such as Rudy’s Bar in Gili Trawangan where tragically Liam
Davies was poisoned.
Bars such as Rudy’s exist in Kuta and also in
Thailand, Laos and most other poorer Asian countries frequented by new-age
travellers.
Make no mistake; these bars are not places I would
take my wife or friends. But if you want to drink yourself into a stupor, smoke
dope and drink cheap local cocktails until 5 am the next day, you can find it.
Often the local police are provided with an
‘incentive’ by local bar-owners to stay away and this only heightens the sense
of security amongst many patrons. Sure, you can go crazy or ‘gila’ as the
Indonesians call it, but you are extremely vulnerable in this condition. Most
people get away with it. Tragically some don’t.
It should be noted that in the case of young Liam,
all the indicators were that he was doing nothing more than having one cocktail
drink. What happened to this boy was horrifying to all Australians and
Indonesians. For those of us who have children it was devastating.
Yet sadly, many Aussies will continue to frequent
places that are very susceptible to using methanol laced drinks.
So why does methanol find it was into cocktail
drinks?
Several years ago Indonesia cracked-down on the black
market in wine and spirits that saw liquor coming into Bali at ‘half price’.
Today these products are expensive, yet many tourists still want cheap drinks
that are strong in alcohol content for the purpose of partying hard and getting
drunk. Enter methanol which is a very cheap form of alcohol and which has been
used in the creation of the local drink called ‘arak’ for hundreds of years.
Arak is made in local backyards by very poor people
who distil the sap from palm trees and then add alcohol-usually in the form of
methanol.
Only recently has this product found its way into
the tourist market with tragic consequences.
The worrying thing is that there is a high
probability that arak and its methanol component will continue to be made
available from ‘cheap’ bars where foreigners go to ‘party’.
The Australian government is right to make
representation to the Indonesia government about the dangers facing Australians
visiting Bali and Lombok from these appalling practices. And the Indonesian
government does need to take action to address the supply of arak into the
tourist precincts, but it won’t be easy to stamp-out. Just look how we go here
in Perth with ‘cracking-down’ on the backyard production of ICE?
But in making such representations, or as The West Australian described, “Putting
the ‘heat’ on Jakarta”, perhaps we should not forget that hundreds of
Indonesians-including Balinese-have been dying of methanol poisoning for years
without us being the slightest bit interested. And also, whilst we express our justifiable
outrage at Indonesia’s lack of action on this matter, let us also not forget
that until late last year, here in Perth WA, we locked-up over 40 young
Indonesian children in maximum security adult prisons for up to two years
without trial on people smuggling charges. Many of these ‘smugglers’ were 13 or
14 years of age and from extremely poor Indonesian villages. The silence from
much of our media and public about this
issue was deafening!
We should also remember that for the almost one
million Australians who will go to Bali this year, the vast majority come home
safely and having had a wonderful holiday that was not only cheap but great
fun. But these people are also happy to sip on a Bintang beer or a glass of
Aussie wine and watch the famous Bali sunsets. They also take simple precautions
and learn to take responsibility for their own actions.
Just like I had to do in 1972.
Ross
Taylor is the Chairman of the WA-based Indonesia Institute (Inc)
January
2013.
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